The original 'Dilli Meri Jaan' girl
She insisted that the best dosas in town were in Karol Bagh! She insisted all good things were in Karol Bagh and I spent many evenings walking through Ajmal Khan market with her, grumbling through the chaos. She showed me how the place was not just full of Punjabis who came in post-partition but also south Indians and Bengalis. One of her friends worked in the LIC building so I also often went with them to Depaul’s and sipped a rather insipid ( of course she didn’t agree) cold coffee, while her friend and she walked up and down the Janpath flea market, buying nothing. We were such regulars that the Depaul’s man simply hands over a hazelnut coffee without asking, even today, whenever I go. As a result, I never get to try any other – but wouldn’t dream of hurting him – she would have been appalled if I did. We also went to lots of dargahs. She was deeply interested in Mughal India and that was her thesis topic during her Masters in Delhi University. I was literally dragge...